This was a luxury, and as I cooked them last week I wondered why leeks are so underused in this country. In Europe, they are as common in kitchens as carrots and turnips. In French cooking, rare is the soup or stew that does not feature a leek or two in its supporting cast of aromatics, not to mention the tarts, soups and starters in which it has the starring role.

If you are one of those people who can’t tolerate an abundance of onions in a dish, try leeks instead. They’re milder, even though they contain many of the sulfur compounds present in onions that are difficult for some people to digest. But these compounds, also found in green garlic, are the source of many health benefits. Leeks contain other important nutrients as well, like lutein and zeaxanthin, carotenoids that are being studied for their role in eye health. Leeks also are a good source ofcalcium, iron, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium and vitamin K, and are a very good source of vitamin A.

Leeks should be trimmed and cleaned before you use them. As the green shoots push up from the ground, dirt can become lodged between their thin layers. The dark green part is tough, and while good for stocks, it doesn’t have the delicate flavor and texture of the white bulb or the tender light green part just above the bulb.

Cut away the dark green parts and the hairy root end, where most of the dirt is. Then cut the leek in half lengthwise and soak it in a bowl of water for about five minutes to loosen the dirt. Finally, run the leek under cold water, fanning the layers under the stream to wash away any lingering sand. Alternatively, you can trim and slice the leeks, soak the slices for five minutes, swish them around in the water, rinse again and drain on paper towels.

Stir-Fried Leeks With Amaranth and Green Garlic

In April, I found piles of baby leeks, red spring onions, amaranth and green garlic at one stand at the local farmers’ market. I bought some of each on impulse, and this dish is what became of them. Amaranth is a beautiful leafy green used in the cuisines of China and Mexico. You can find it at some Asian markets and farmers’ markets.

1 generous bunch amaranth, about 1/2 pound

2 tablespoons peanut or canola oil

2 medium leeks, white and light green parts only, cleaned and sliced

1 medium spring onion, trimmed, or 1 bunch scallions, white and light green part only, chopped

1/2 bulb green garlic, minced (2 tablespoons minced)

2 teaspoons minced ginger

1 teaspoon sesame seeds

1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon salt, to taste

1/8 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

1/4 teaspoon sugar

Soy sauce to taste

1. Wash the amaranth, and trim away the thick ends of the stems. Cut the bottom, thicker parts of the stems into 1/2-inch lengths. If the leaves are very large, remove them and break off the stringy stems. Place the cut stems and leaves together in a large bowl. Have all the ingredients within arm’s length of your pan.

2. Heat a 14-inch flat-bottomed wok over high heat until a drop of water evaporates within a second or two from the surface. Swirl in 1 tablespoon of the oil by adding it to the sides of the wok and tilting it. Add the leeks, spring onion, garlic and ginger, and stir-fry for one to two minutes until the leeks have softened.

3. Add the remaining oil, amaranth (stems and leaves), sesame seeds, salt, pepper and sugar. Turn the heat to high and stir-fry for two minutes, or until the leaves have wilted and the stems are crisp-tender. Add soy sauce to taste. Remove from the heat and serve with rice.

Yield: Serves two as a main dish.

Advance preparation: This is a last minute stir-fry, but you can have all of your ingredients prepared several hours ahead.

Nutritional information per serving: 256 calories; 3 grams saturated fat; 5 grams polyunsaturated fat; 7 grams monounsaturated fat; 0 milligrams cholesterol; 27 grams carbohydrates; 7 grams dietary fiber; 639 milligrams sodium (based on higher amount of salt; does not include soy sauce); 5 grams protein